November 24

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec's Birthday
 

Jose Ferrer  (left) as Toulouse-Lautrec  and Suzanne Flon as Myriamme Hayam in Moulin Rouge (1952)

 

Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec lived in a whorehouse, spent his evenings in lesbian bars, was confined to a mental hospital for alcohol depression, suffered from syphilis, and was crippled due to a fracture of both his thigh bones in his early teens which did not heal properly due a genetic bone disease. His parents were u first cousins, leaving Henri to inherit several genetic disorders that would plague him his whole life.

Physically unable to participate in most of the activities typically enjoyed by men of his age, Toulouse-Lautrec immersed himself in his art. He became an important painter, illustrator, and and recorded in his works many details of the late-19th century bohemian lifestyle in Paris. He was also a great gourmand, wine expert, and possibly the wittiest man in Paris. More than any other artist, Toulouse-Lautrec portrayed truth, a truth without comment or moral judgment.  The whores, lesbians, dancers, and jockeys who the artist drew were never whores, lesbians, dancers or jockeys; they were just people captured in the moment without eroticism and without social commentary.
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Perhaps his greatest influence came from the neighborhood his first studio was in: the infamous Montmartre district, bohemia-central for Paris. Toulouse-Lautrec spiraled into hopeless alcoholism, leading to outrageous drunken behavior where his physical appearance and ever-present sketchbook made him very recognizable.

Lautrec loved to cook and 197 of his recipes, were copied by his closest friend and dealer, Maurice Joyant, have been published in French (Edita Lausann) illustrated with Toulouse-Lautrec's drawings, including the menus he drew for his own gourmet meals.  Many of Lautrec's recipes were variations on classic dishes, and he had a taste for  for the exotic: eel liver, fried octopus, roast boar,a nd sautéed squirrel ). Always the wit,  his recipe for leg of lamb, required "a glacier like the Wildstrubel. Kill a young lamb from the high Alps at around 3,000 meters, during September. Cut out the leg and let it hang for three or four weeks. It should be eaten raw with horse-radish." His favorite recipe was wood pigeon with olives. When the great chef August Escoffier was chef de cuisine at the Moulin Rouge, he created Perdue a la Lautrec (Partridge Lautrec) for the artist which is our selection to celebrate Henri's birthday.
 

Perdue a la Lautrec
(Partridge Lautrec)

 

 

Ingredients
 
1 ounces black or white truffles
1/2 lb unsalted butter, room temperature
Coarse sea salt
2 ready-to-cook partridges
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
1 dozen mushroom caps
4 TB brown glace de viande, melted *
 

* See Appendix A
 
Instructions
 
  1. In a small bowl, clean the truffles and grate them into the butter; gently combine the truffle distributing them as evenly as possible. Taste to determine how much truffle you preferred. Season with salt to taste.  Transfer the butter to a ramekin and cover with plastic wrap. Let the flavors blend at room temperature for several hours. (You can also order truffle butter by mail from the Gourmet Food Store http://www.gourmetfoodstore.com.)
  2. Preheat oven to broil.
  3. Wash and dry mushroom caps. Salt and pepper caps and put 1/4 tsp truffle butter in each cap.
  4. Split partridges in half through the back.  Wash and dry partridges. Rub with salt and pepper, lemon zest and 8 TB truffle butter (4 TB per bird) into flesh.
  5. Broil partridges for 8 minutes per side and brush with more truffle butter while broiling.
  6. After turning partridges over to complete broiling, add mushroom caps and broil for 4-5 minutes.
  7. Remove partridges and mushroom caps. Arrange partridges on dish and surround with mushroom caps. Dot caps with more truffle butter. Drop melted glace de viande over partridges and serve.

Serves 2-4

© 2011 Gordon Nary and Tyler Stokes