|
|
October 01
St. Remi's Feastday |
|
|
|
St. Remi (St. Remigus) is a popular French saint who was
responsible for converting the Franks, the tribe from which
France takes its name, to Christianity. Remi was appointed
Archbishop of
Reims
in 460 when he was only twenty-two years old.
The legends about St. Remi have had a major influence in the
history of the French monarchy. According to one of these
legends, when Remi was baptizing Clovis, the King of the Franks,
he misplaced the chrism (holy oil) that was used for the
anointing ceremony. A dove appeared overhead with an ampulla
(vile) of chrism. This ampulla was preserved at the abbey of St.
Remi and used in the consecration of all of the subsequent kings
of France.
Remi was also supposed to have given King Clovis the power to cure scrofula
( a form of tuberculosis characterized by a swelling of the lymph glands in
the neck), a power that was exercised by all subsequent kings at their
coronations until Charles X.
St Remis' relics were initially kept in the Cathedral of Reims, and in 1099,
at the instance of Pope Leo IX, to the Abbey of Saint-Rémy.
St. Remi's feastday is indelibly associated with a partridge because of the
French jingle:
|
A la Saint Remi
Perdreaux sont perdrix
(On St. Remi's feastday,
young partridge turns into old partridge) |
|
|
Remigius baptizes Clovis I,
by the Master of Saint Gilles, |
|
|
|
|
A perdreaux is a young partridge and a perdrix is an old
partridge. Technically, perdreaux was never served after October 1st
because it was too tough and automatically became a perdrix. Since
the older partridge is too tough for roasting, it is usually braised with
cabbage and bacon. Although St. Remi's feastday has been celebrated for
centuries with Perdrix aux Chou (old partridge with cabbage) or
Perdrix St. Remi, the availability of frozen partridge makes it
possible to reverse the classic tradition and serve Perdreaux St. Remi
(young partridge with cabbage) on his feast day..
Related to the pheasant, partridge
is not a native North American bird but is related to various species
originating in Europe, the Near East, and Asia. Because of their similar
size, partridges in the U are often confused with quail. Typically one
partridge would be served per person. Fresh partridge is generally available
from fall to the end of January in specialty meat markets. Frozen partridges
are be available at other times of year in many countries.
So what would be the appropriate film to view
while eating
Perdreaux St. Remi? Only one
possibility- the TV film
Come
On, Get Happy: The Partridge Family
Story (1999) |
|
|
|
|
Perdreaux St. Remi
(Young Partridge and Cabbage Casserole) |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Ingredients
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
2 young partridges (1&1/2 - 1&3/4 lbs each)
salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
12 slices of bacon cut into 2" pieces
3 cloves garlic, minced
2 medium onions, chopped fine
2 carrots, sliced very thin
* See Appendix A
|
1 small head of cabbage, shredded
1 TB flour
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup brandy
1/4 cup white glace de viande*
1 bouquet garni*
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Instructions
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
- Salt and pepper partridges and set aside .
- Cook bacon in a flameproof casserole dish
over medium heat until golden, but not crisp. Remove bacon pieces.
- Brown partridge halves on both sides in
bacon drippings over medium heat. Remove and set aside.
- Add garlic and onions to casserole and
cook over medium heat until soft and translucent (about 2 - 3 minutes).
Add carrots and cabbage and cook for 3 - 4 minutes until softened,
stirring constantly. Add wine, glace de viande, and bacon pieces.
Cook over low heat for 8 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Place
partridges over cabbage mixture. Add bouquet garni. Cover casserole and
cook over low heat for 50 - 60 minutes.
- A few minutes before serving, remove
partridges. Remove cooked vegetables, discard bouquet garni, and strain
remaining liquid. Add brandy and cook rapidly over high heat until
reduced by 50%. Adjust for salt and pepper.
- Split partridges in half. Mound
bacon/vegetable mixture on plate. Place partridges over mixture.
Top with sauce and serve.
Serves 2
|
|
|
St. Remi's popularity is not limited to France. The Italians
also celebrate his feast with Torta San Remigio, an unusual torte
filled with sweetened mascarpone cheese.
|
|
Torta San
Remigio
(St. Remi's Mascarpone Torte)
|
|
Ingredients
|
|
5 eggs
separated
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup butter, very soft
1&3/4 cups flour
dash salt
1 tsp baking powder
|
3 TB vanilla
wafer crumbs, ground fine
8 oz mascarpone cheese
1 TB grated orange rind
2/3 cup confectioner's sugar
1 tsp vanilla
butter for pan
|
|
Instructions
|
|
- Beat egg yolks and sugar in a bowl over
boiling water until frothy (about 5 minutes).
- Sift flour, salt, and baking powder. Mix
in soft butter. Fold mixture into yolk/sugar mixture.
Gradually fold egg whites into batter. Pour batter into prepared pan and
bake 35 minutes. Remove cake and place on rack to cool.
- Make filling by combining cheese,
confectioner's sugar (reserve 1 TB of sugar), orange zest ,and vanilla.
- Split cooled cake into two layers. Spread
filling on bottom layer. Top with remaining layer. Sprinkle with remaining
TB of confectioner's sugar and serve.
|
|